![]() ![]() Think hard about the dimensions YOU need and adjust accordingly. The height of the larger one is a bit less than 8’ so an 8’ curtain or sheet would drape at the bottom. I have a frame that’s roughly 8’ wide by 7’7″ tall that I use as a photo booth backdrop and another frame that’s 6’ wide x 7’7″ tall that I use as a backdrop for my dessert table. You’ll need to decide how tall and wide to make your frame to fit most of your needs. ![]() Nice, clean cuts without any rough, irregular edges – it’s a simple tool to use and a great asset to have in your arsenal if you occasionally use PVC for crafting or DIY projects. The phrase “hot knife through butter” gets used far too much but for this tool, it’s absolutely true. You can of course use any kind of saw or cutting tool but the PVC cutter is really an amazing tool. My PVC frame cost $28 in materials but I already had the PVC cutter tool. They’re definitely more flimsy than the PVC frame I’m going to show you, but they’ll get the job done and have the advantage of being adjustable. Whether or not you have a wall available, sometimes, having a free-standing backdrop with a frame is the best solution for your needs, and a PVC frame is cheap, easy to make, and very sturdy.īut before I go into how to make a PVC backdrop frame, I want to make you aware that you can buy a collapsible and adjustable frame for around $50: Use the two 40” leftover pipes that you’ve cut during the base assembly, and connect them to the free ends of each T-piece.Have you ever wondered how all those wonderful backdrops for party dessert tables or photo booths hold up? Now connect the upper ends of T-pieces to the corresponding ends of each of the 40” PVC pipes. Once completed, you should’ve created another H-looking part. Of course, you should use the T-pieces’ center openings. Now, take another 75" piece of PVC, and connect each T-piece to one end, as you've done in the base assembly process. Leave that part for now we'll come back to it in a second. You should now have a construction that resembles an upside-down letter U. Next, take two 40" long pieces, and connect each pipe to the available elbow opening. Needless to say, opposite ends of the elbow pieces should point in the same direction. Take the first 75 inches long pipe, and mount elbow pieces on opposite ends. Congratulations, you’ve assembled the base, and you can now move onto the frame assembly.īut before we move on, here's the drawing of the base assembly, which you can use for reference:īesides the parts listed in the previous section, you'll need two elbow pipes and two additional T-pieces of PVC. Now, attach each leg pair to the bottom openings of each T-piece mounted on the 75” bar. Put one of those pieces into the center hole of the T-piece on one of the legs. Cut that in half, and make two 2.5" pieces, which you'll need to complete the assembly. This will be the horizontal bar that provides your stand with enough sturdiness to withstand any type of background. It should now look like an incredibly wide letter H. Use the middle openings, leaving the opposite ends open for further assembly. Next, take the 75” pipe, and attach the T-pieces at both ends. You’re now left with two pairs of legs for your stand, with the middle openings of the T-pipe still unused. Repeat that with another T-piece and two 20” PVC pipes. Now attach the end caps to each end, and you’ve assembled one pair of legs for your DIY backdrop stand. Start by attaching one 20” pipe to a T-piece and adding another 20” part to the opposite end. To join them all together, you'll need four T-pipes and four end caps to seal the ends of the legs. For assembly, you'll need one 75 inches long piece of PVC (previously cut) and four 20 inches long pieces for the legs. ![]()
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